When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.
It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.
It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.
Elara is a tech enthusiast and lifestyle blogger passionate about sharing innovative ideas and practical advice for modern living.
Edward Howard
Edward Howard
Edward Howard
Edward Howard
Edward Howard